Friday, July 23, 2010

Day 3 - Golan Heights, Jerusalem


After breakfast, we checked out of Kibbutz Lavi Hotel. Be sure to check the photos on Facebook; interesting one of the bearded guard at the hotel, yes, he is carrying an Uzi!


We travelled to the northern edge of the Sea of Galilee, beautiful country, to the Mount of Beatitudes, the site of the Sermon on the Mount. Lovely octagonal Church of the Beatitudes and surrounding gardens and you can see Capernaum in the distance. Helps you realize that walking anywhere, generally, in this country was/is not that big a deal, much less travelling by boat from one side of the Sea of Galilee to the other.


From there, we travelled south along the eastern side of the Sea of Galilee along the Jordan Valley; definitely the country is becoming less green and a bit more desolate. We stopped at a vantage point along the Golan Heights, formerly held by Syria. During the 6-Day War, Israel re-took the Golan but before that, Syrian constantly shelled the kibbutzes down in the valley along the Sea of Galilee. Israeli children would spend a good deal of time in bomb shelters to stay safe. From the Golan Heights, you can actually see the entire Sea of Galilee, north to south, east to west.


We then travelled a rather treacherous road south along the Jordan border, lots of hair pin turns and switchbacks, not for the faint of heart. We then met with Judith, a 80-some year old Israeli pioneer at Hatzer Kinneret, an agricultural and educational community, founded back in the 1930's, a real pioneer community. She gave us a unique perspective on life in the very early days of Jewish settlements. And thanks to Kibbutz Lavi Hotel for our box lunches!!


From there, we headed to Jerusalem, about 140 kilometers, two hours or so. The closer we got, the more the landscape changed to real desert. Please note - a desert is defined more by temperature than terrain. The Judean desert is a rocky wasteland, not sand!!


We enter Jerusalem through a mountain tunnel, all dark and then suddenly the city is there before you, the Mount of Olives, the Old City, the golden Dome of the Rock. Breathtaking does not do it justice. We made our way up Mt. Scopus to a scenic view, looking down on the Old City and an ancient Jewish cemetery. Yoram provided wine and prayers, the Shechecheyanu, a blessing of celebration and thanks for very special occasions. Experiencing Jerusalem for the first time certainly qualifies.


From there, we made our way down to the Garden of Gethsemane. A short stroll around the garden, you can't actually enter it. Although Jeff and I did jump and grab a few olives. We then visited the Church of All Nations, right next to the Garden. Beautiful exterior mural and stained glass windows. The interior near the altar includes the rock on which Jesus prayed on Holy Thursday night.


We then checked into our hotel, Mount Zion Hotel on Hebron Road, right alongside the Old City, an easy walk to enter one of the gates. Some very panoramic views since the hotel is built right on the hillside. FYI, you, obviously, enter the lobby from the outside but you quickly realize the lobby is on the 6th Floor - all the rooms/floors are BELOW the lobby, down the hillside. A fabulous courtyard and garden too, at least one wedding took place while we were there. No worries about rain; it does not rain at all from April to October.


Spent some time unpacking and chilling and then out for dinner at Beit Hamaayan Restaurant in Ein Kerem, a community on the outskirts of Jerusalem. I dont know how Lisa or Linda pick our meals/restaurants but wow!!! They are all upscale establishments, fabulous food and service. I had the salmon and too many salads and desserts to remember. Dinner was with Prof. Paul Liptz, a South African scholar and historian at Hebrew Union College in Jerusalem. He led a lively informative session on the variety of religious groups within Judaism in Israel, typically 5 different groups, not to mention all the sub-groups. We certainly realized that it is impossible to just lump all Jews into one category, just doesn't work. And it also adds to the complexity of the religious and political climate in Israel.


Back to the hotel - long day and long night!! Lila Tov!!!

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