Boker TOV (good morning)!!
After a much needed rest and a wonderful buffet-style breakfast at Kibbutz Lavi Hotel, we headed out for the Yigual Allon Museum near Tiberias. The centerpiece of the museum are the remains of a 2000 year old fishing boat discovered on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, a most remarkable exhibit, not to mention the time and effort to preserve and restore the boat, the only example of a typical fishing boat from the time of Jesus. The museum store was phenomenal, got more than a few items:) Jeff got a shofar, which gave him no end of problems when we returned home to Chicago. We also spoke to the researcher you can see in the pics (facebook) underneath the boat. e.g. how much of the boat is the original? how much is repairs done over the years?
From there, we travelled to Capernaum, home of Peter and in many ways Jesus' home town after growing up in Nazareth. There is a beautiful church built over the ruins of what is purported to be Peter's home - it does date to the right period. The church itself has a section of glass floor from which you can view the ruins from above. There are also lots of windows that provide a gorgeous view of the Sea of Galilee. The white limestone ruins of a synagogue date back to the 4th century but it was built over the ruins of the darker basalt stones of another synagogue built in the first century. There are also the remains of the ancient city, including a number of basalt grinding mills used to make flour - they look like jars.
From there, we travelled to the Church of the Loaves and Fishes in Tabgha. While the current church is modern, it is built over the remains of a 4th/5th century church so the mosaic floor is original. Some believe the mosaic of the loaves and fishes here is the first instance of that particular symbol.
We then had lunch at a restaurant close to Fassouta, along with George Ayoub,former mayor of Fassouta, a completely Arab Christian town in NW Israel. Besides another endless succession of dishes, we had a very interesting discussion of what it means to be Arab and Christian in Israel. It raised a lot of questions about identity!! Arab? Christian? Israeli? What comes first? In spite of no longer being mayor, George still has a very obvious influence in his town and area; in the past he has met with President Obama and Cardinal George. A very welcoming and open personality. ps - the food was amazing, these little fried doughs of cheese, way better than cheese sticks. I thought they were the dessert but then they cameout with lamb chops and ground lamb skewers - to die for!!!
From there, we travelled to Hurfesh to meet with an Arab Druse family. Druse is a small secretive branch of Islam, they marry only within the religion and all rituals are kept secret. Their home was absolutely beautiful, felt like an Italian villa. And, of course, the food continued - a variety of fruits and beverages - where am I putting all this food? Again a great discussion of what it means to be Arab and Druse (a very small minority) in Israel. The whole family was involved. We then travelled to Fassouta and did a short walking tour of the town, 99% Christian Arab, and visited George in his other occupation - doctor, at his clinic.
Making our way back to the hotel, in a roundabout way, we went north and travelled along the Lebanon/Israel border where, a few years ago, gunfire and mortars would have been passing over our heads - a sobering thought. I am beginning to understand how small a country Israel is and how surrounded by other nations to the point security is a constant issue and concern.
We stopped for dinner at Moshav Amirim, a completely vegetarian community with a restaurant named Stupps!! Frances was most pleased that the personable owner, I forget her name, spoke French. Wow, each meal just gets better and better. An assortment of breads - sourdough, onion and hyssop (very tasty), tahini, eggplant and ginger, mushroom lasagna, onion quiche and a to-die-for chicken liver pate. Desserts included berry cheeescake and a hot chocolate cake. Are you hungry yet??
From there it was back to the hotel for some much needed sleep in order to tackle the next day of activities.
Lila Tov - good night:)
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